More customer questions (and our answers!) that may be helpful in solving your skin care dilemma. Keep them coming!
1. I use a night cream with glycolic acid in it. Can I use a cleanser with AHA or would that be too much for my skin?
Cleansers with AHA’s (like Apothekari’s AHA-Mazing Clean Gel Cleanser) tend to provide gentle exfoliation. If you are already using a night cream with glycolic acid in its formula, it sounds like your skin would tolerate the addition of an AHA cleanser well. However, it’s always best with new products to incorporate them slowly and allow the skin to adjust in order to reap the benefits while minimizing any possible irritations.
2. Can I use glycolic acic and salicylic acid together with benzoyl peroxide in treating acne? What about using retinol at the same time for wrinkles? I heard that retinol also helps to treat acne.
In answer to your questions, AHAs (glycolic acid in your case) and BHAs (salicylic acid is the only beta hydroxy acid) are often used together. AHAs work on the surface of the skin while BHAs penetrate deeper into the pore. It is not uncommon to see them in small concentrations within one product, like in Neostrata’s Blemish Spot Gel. Benzoyl peroxide is also a common treatment for acne that can be used effectively in conjunction with an AHA and/or BHA product. The only caveat is to make sure that the skin is not overstressed with excessive use of these ingredients and they can each trigger inflammation, peeling and irritation.
Retinol was initially developed for use as a treatment for acne. The happy side effects were fewer wrinkles and increased collagen production. An anti-aging star was born! As retinol is very light-sensitive and breaks down when exposed to the sun, we suggest using it only at night.
3. Which sunscreen works best for melasma?
Melasma is a skin condition typified by patches of hyperpigmented (darkened skin). Often referred to as the mask of pregnancy, it’s not exactly certain what causes it – hormones, sun exposure, skin coloring (medium skin tones) and a genetic susceptibility are thought to be implicated. Since UV exposure stimulates the production of melanin and can make treatment of melasma even more challenging, a sunscreen year round is a must.
There are several factors to consider when choosing the best sunblock for melasma:
- The sunscreen should be photostable, meaning that it will not degrade rapidly upon application.
- It should offer protection against both UVA (Aging) and UVB (Burning) rays. Both are responsible for the development of skin discoloration
- Ideally, look for a product offering a minimum of SPF 30, which will block out about 97% of UVB rays.
Most importantly, your sunscreen should have a texture and finish that you will enjoy wearing, rain or shine, every day. Our favorites come from Anthelios with their wide selection and formulations that contain what we believe to be the most effective sun filters available.
4. I have tried numerous products for dermal melasma and no progress yet. I wanted to add Vit B3 and B5 in my moisturizer. Would it be ok if I were to get the tablets and ground it into powder and add it to my moisturizer?
While both vitamins B3 and B5 are known to be skin beneficial when applied topically, it is difficult for us ato provide any guidance regarding the safety and/or efficacy of a DIY version treatment. A finished product is affected by many factors including temperature, pH, preservatives and the compatibility of all the ingredients in the product. It’s possible that the addition of powdered B3 and B5 added to your moisturizer may be effective. However, it’s just as possible that they may not be compatible with the ingredients, rendering them ineffective or possibly unsafe. You may wish to contact a compounding pharmacy locally who should be able to advise or assist with your needs.
5. I was wondering if using a cream containing vitamin C under sunscreen (Ombrelle) would help protect my skin, or would it affect the properties of the sunscreen? I’m going to Mexico soon.
Using a vitamin C cream or serum is a great way to boost the power of your sunscreen! As an antioxidant, vitamin C neutralizes the free radicals created when skin is exposed to UV rays. We would suggest, however, doing a skin patch test to ensure that there are no reactions when using the two specific products together. You may find that with the heat and humidity in Mexico, a cream during the day may feel heavy under your sunscreen. In that case, switch to a lighter serum during the day, like Apothekari Super C serum, or apply the vitamin C cream at night to reinforce the fight against free radical damage while you sleep.
