Take a look around the cosmetic counters and you’ll notice that hyaluronic acid (HA)has become the hot ingredient this year, and for good reason. What is hyaluronic acid? A naturally occurring substance found in the body, it helps with wound healing, acts as a lubricant between joints, is found in the spaces between the skin’s collagen and elastin, forming a part of the skin’s supporting system. As we age, the amount of hyaluronic acid found in the skin decreases dramatically, leading to dehydrated skin, roughness, flaking, wrinkles and sagging.
Because it can hold up to 1000 times its own weight in water, hyaluronic acid (and its salt form, sodium hyaluronate) features prominently in moisturizers for the face and body. Large molecules sit on the surface of the skin and draw water to it, either from the water that is in the product or from the environment, keeping skin hydrated and plump-looking.
Although it may not be the elusive Fountain of Youth, hyaluronic acid would appear to be a magical ingredient, good for age and every skin type. Or is it? For the majority of those who are using products containing hyaluronic acid in partnership with other moisturizing ingredients, it’s a supersponge of hydration that has considerable benefits:
- Fine lines and wrinkles are less noticeable
- Tightness of dry skin is alleviated
- Skin barrier function is reinforced to keep out external irritants, bacteria and environmental assaults
- Other treatments and active ingredients penetrate the skin more easily and are absorbed more effectively
- A healthy environment is maintained for skin cell turnover
- Transepidermal water loss is minimized
However, hyaluronic acid may not be the “one size fits all” active ingredient. In some limited cases, HA may actually be working against you. In very dry climates with low humidity, the danger is that HA will will not be able to pull water from the air. Instead, it may begin to pull water from the skin instead, essentially drying it out instead of hydrating it.
For most of us, hyaluronic acid in skin care still adds value to the products. Pure hyaluronic acid used on its own may not be the optimal way of getting all the benefits. It really shines is when combined with a lotion or cream that will hold in the moisture that gets drawn to the skin. Is it right for you? You’ll find it Apothekari Firming Eye Gel and Cliniderm Hydracomfort Hydrating Serum.
