There’s no doubt that Vitamin A derivatives like retinoic acid (available in prescription only products like Retin A) and retinol (available in over the counter formulations like Green Cream) are effective anti aging skin care ingredients.
Retinol (which is converted into retinoic acid, the active form of Vitamin A in skin) and retinoic acid work in a number of ways to boost the production of collagen and elastin (thereby increasing skin thickness), modulate sebum production and enhance skin cell communication. For this reason they are useful in:
• Reversing sun damage
• Boosting the production of collagen and elastin
• Reversing fine lines and wrinkles
• Controlling acne
Despite retinol’s many benefits, skin dryness and irritation sometimes result. For the most part, proper use can minimize or eliminate these side effects. For example:
• Build use gradually, starting with the lowest concentration before initiating to a higher strength.
• Do not apply to a freshly washed face. Natural oils help protect skin from the drying and irritating effects. I often apply just before dinner over my make-up. When I cleanse my face at night, the retinoid has had enough time to be absorbed minimizing potential for irritation.
• Apply 2 to 3 times per week for first few months and gradually work up to nightly application.
• Do not apply retinoids in conjunction with other skin irritating products such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). Instead, alternate use on different nights.
• If skin is becoming too red and irritated, stop for a few days. Introduce again gradually and watch for side effects. Almost anyone can tolerate retinol if introduced properly. However some people with very sensitive skin are simply not able to use a retinoid.
• Use a good moisturizer to combat the drying effects. I have found that Impruv Cream works extremely well, especially on my dry cheeks. Other top choices include La Roche Posay Hydreane available in Light or Riche formulations or Linacare Transforming Face Cream
• Exfoliate once or twice weekly to remove the dry, flaking skin that often accompanies use of a retinoid. Don’t apply the two together due to potential for skin irritation. Consider M2 HP Refinish Serum or Neostrata Smoothing Cream.
