Cosmeceuticals are topical skin care products that aren’t drugs, but which contain active ingredients that can alter the physiology of skin. Think retinol, salicylic acid, Vitamins C and E, or alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). Because they aren’t regulated by the FDA or Health Canada, one isn’t allowed to make claims regarding their use. Prescription items, which must be prescribed by a physician, are regulated by both countries’ agencies. Medical claims may be made if they are backed up by clinical studies.
For many individuals, a combination of cosmeceuticals and prescription topicals can achieve great results. The key is to ensure that skin isn’t overtaxed with harsh treatments, especially if used together. Commonly prescribed topical actives include:
- Benzoyl peroxide (for treating acne); often in combination with an antibacterial agent such as clindamycin or doxycycline
- Antiobiotics including clindamycin, doxycycline, tetracycline or minocycline
- Azelaic acid
- Vitamin A derivatives such as tazarotene, tretinoin
- Hydroquinone (greater than 4% in Canada; greater than 2% in the USA), sometimes in combination with tretinoin and a steroid
If this is a skin care strategy that you’re following and it works for you – bravo! Ensure that you aren’t duplicating your treatments (i.e. OTC hydroquinone with prescription strength hydroquinone) or using ingredients that may interact with one another. And, prescription strength intervention isn’t always the best option. Individuals with sensitive skin and/or mild skin conditions, may do better with over the counter versions, which are milder, but still effective. Results may take longer to achieve, but skin will happier during the treatment period. A good example of this is over the counter retinol (as in Green Cream) versus a prescription strength retinoid.
If it’s working for you, go ahead and combine your cosmeceuticals with prescription topicals, as long as you understand how each product works along with their active ingredients. If the combination isn’t working, don’t hesitate to discontinue one or another. And check in with your pharmacist of physician if you aren’t sure.
