Alpha Hydroxy Acids Vs Retinol: Which Is Best?

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In the pursuit of radiant and healthy skin, the choice between alpha hydroxy acids vs retinol often perplexes skincare enthusiasts. In this comprehensive exploration we’re shedding some light into the benefits, applications, and nuances of these two skincare powerhouses.

We hope that this helps to empower you to make informed decisions for a skincare regimen tailored to your unique needs.

The Basics: Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Retinol

First up, let’s take a look at the difference between these two types of ingredients.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

Let’s begin by unraveling the mysteries of alpha hydroxy acids, nature’s exfoliating wonders. Glycolic acid from sugar cane, mandelic acid from bitter almonds, lactic acid from milk, and malic acid from apples and pears are some of the types that make up the AHA family.

These acids play a vital role in promoting skin health by gently exfoliating, removing dead cells, and encouraging cell turnover. Research has shown that consistent use of AHAs can significantly reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, contributing to a rejuvenated and vibrant complexion.

Retinol and Retinoids

On the flip side, we have potent retinol, which belongs to a class of substances derived from Vitamin A, retinoids. Initially championed for the treatment of acne, retinoids gained acclaim for their remarkable properties in helping skin look more youthful and vibrant.

Retinol and other non-prescription options including retinaldehyde and retinyl palmitate, pack antioxidant prowess, combat free radical damage and contribute to a more youthful appearance. These over-the-counter alternatives provide effective options for those who find prescription retinoic acid too harsh on the skin.

The Star Product: Apothekari Advanced+ Renewal

Apothekari Advanced+ Renewal Serum

While there are myriad retinoid products available, Apothekari’s Advanced+ Renewal stands out as a gentle yet effective solution, suitable for all skin types. Formulated with retinaldehyde, the direct precursor to skin-friendly retinoic acid, this serum is an age-beautifying go-to!

The serum incorporates a synergy of active ingredients designed to:

  • Provide photo-aging protection
  • Reduce inflammation, and
  • Brighten the skin.

A notable feature is retinaldehyde’s low risk for skin irritation, making it suitable for individuals with varying levels of skin sensitivity, and a preferred choice in the world of retinoids.

Understanding the Differences: AHA vs Retinol

Effects on Aging Skin

Both AHAs and retinol contribute to skin beautifying, but their mode of actions differ. Retinol/retinaldehyde excel as cell communicators, stimulating collagen production and reducing the appearance of wrinkles. They also help in managing hyperpigmentation.

In contrast, AHAs specialize in exfoliation, promoting cell turnover and revealing a fresher complexion. It’s possible to combine both ingredients as part of your skincare routine—but being used at different times—to help address multiple skin concerns simultaneously.

Sun Sensitivity

A critical consideration when incorporating potent skincare ingredients like retinoids and AHAs is increased sun sensitivity.

To minimize the impact of sun exposure on skin, a reliable sunscreen becomes non-negotiable. The good news? We stock a range of safe and effective sunscreens that seamlessly integrate into your routine, ensuring your skin remains shielded from sun damage during and after using these potent ingredients.Broad Spectrum Sunscreen PhaMix

Crafting Your Ideal Skincare Regimen

Daily Routine

If you want to reap the rewards of both these ingredients, it’s important to understand how to incorporate them into your daily skincare regimen.

Consider incorporating a retinol treatment nightly after cleansing and swapping in an AHA once or twice a week. Using both together can lead to skin irritation, while alternating their use will allow your skin to benefit from their unique properties without overwhelm.

Tailoring to Your Skin’s Needs

Customization is key in skincare. If your skin leans towards sensitivity and a retinoid proves too harsh, opting for an AHA preparation can be an effective alternative. The goal is to tailor your routine to suit your skin’s specific needs, harnessing the benefits of both alpha hydroxy acids and retinol.

***If you’ve tried retinol or prescription retinoids before, without any luck, consider trying Advanced+ Renewal. Many of our customers are able to reap the rewards of this super effective, yet also gentle retinoid despite having failed with others.

Your Skincare FAQs

1. Can You Use AHA and Retinol Together?

The question of whether you can use AHA and retinol together often arises in skincare discussions. The answer is yes, but with caution. Introducing both ingredients simultaneously requires a gradual approach. Ensure that you use them on alternate days to allow your skin to minimize the potential for skin irritation. Additionally, always prioritize sunscreen to shield your skin from increased sun sensitivity.

2. AHA vs Retinol vs Vitamin C

In the quest for radiant skin, you may wonder about the comparison of AHA vs retinol vs vitamin C. Vitamin C, another potent ingredient and boasts antioxidant properties that complement both AHAs and retinol.

Consider incorporating a vitamin C serum into your routine for added protection against free radicals and enhanced brightening effects. Consider Apothekari Glow Getter 3, which combines 3 unique forms of vitamin C, along with other antioxidants and skin hydrators to help deliver a glowing complexion.

Apothekari Glow Getter 3 PhaMix

3. AHA vs Retinol for Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation is a skin condition that can be hard to treat and there is a lot of debate about using AHA vs retinol.

While both play a role in fading dark spots, AHAs offer surface-level benefits, making them effective for mild pigmentation issues. In contrast, retinol dives deeper, making it suitable for more stubborn pigmentation concerns. Tailor your choice based on the intensity of your hyperpigmentation. And, consider using them together (but never at the same time).

Unlocking Your Best Skin

When it comes to the skincare landscape, the alpha hydroxy acids vs retinol debate is just one of many questions that get asked in the quest for radiant, healthy skin.

We hope that this post has armed you with knowledge and recommended exceptional products, including Apothekari Advanced+ Renewal Serum, Apothekari Glow Getter and a broad-spectrum sunscreen to help you create a personalized skincare regimen that caters to your unique needs.

It’s important to remember that skincare is not one-size-fits-all. Experiment, observe how your skin responds, and don’t shy away from seeking professional advice. Your journey to glowing skin is an ongoing exploration, and with the right combination of ingredients, along with consistency and a commitment to sun protection, you’re well on your way to unlocking your best skin yet.

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This Post Has 58 Comments

  1. Annika

    I am using a aha cleanser with sylicatic in it,and a intence vitamin moistirizer
    with vitamin a b and c in it.
    My skin seems to tingle and burn a little.
    Tell me why please?

    1. Sharmani

      Hi Annika,
      Your skin is tingling upon application of your alpha hydroxy acids because the product is penetrating the epidermis, or top layer of your skin. This is a normal side-effect and should diminish with continued use. A tingling, burning sensation can also occur when you have sunburn, allergies, a cold or fatigue. If the tingling sensation is bothering you, gently rinse the product off. If you have especially sensitive skin, you may find the aha cream Green Cream Level 3 works well for you without irritating your skin. See our advice on using retinol creams.

  2. Ria

    So would this be a correct routine, on a clean face nightly retinol(.05 or .01) then twice a week in the morning glycol acid of %10 ? This is my routine, does it seem correct, and why is the aha used in the morning ?

    1. Sharmani

      Hi Ria, Thanks for asking about incorporating AHAs and retinol in your skincare regimen. Your routine sounds good — the only change I would make is to move your 10% glycolic acid treatment to the evening as well. This is because of the sun sensitivity cause by using AHAs. You would then, for instance, be applying your retinol product for three nights, then the AHA one night, back to the retinol for two or three more nights, then back to the AHA. However, if you are using a good sunscreen such as Anthelios, you could continue to apply the glycolic acid twice a week in the morning. Thanks for your question! Sharmani

  3. Janice

    I have M2 20%, SkinCeuticals Retinol 1%, and NIA24 Niacin spf30 sunscreen. It took a while for my face to get used to the sunscreen, on it’s own. Now it’s winter and I dropped the sunscreen and just use M2 twice a week and retinol every night, which my skin is tolerating. I guess I need to go back to using sunscreen, but I’m concerned about how my skin’s going to tolerate it, with the other products. It is too much to bring a 3rd anti-aging product into the mix?

    1. Sharmani

      For Janice, If your skin is tolerating your present regimen well, I think you shouldn’t have too much difficulty in adding sunscreen. In fact, I recommend the sunscreen wholeheartedly — there is nothing better you can do than prevent damage. You can make it easy for yourself by using a physical sunscreen like Keys Solar Rx, which is well tolerated by sensitive skin types. Or, I also like the Anthelios line by La Roche Posay, which like the Keys is highly photostable and won’t break down releasing free radicals into your skin. Using multiple products shouldn’t be a problem for most skin types — just do a test first to be sure you don’t have a reaction. And it’s good to introduce products gradually, alternating nights you use treatments. At night I alternate using the M2 and Green Cream .9% high potency retinol. By day, it’s apothekari Antioxidant Serum with C, E and Ferulic Acid followed (20-30 minutes later) by Anthelios SPF 50+ melt in cream. Read more about layering treatments here. And if you click this link, you can read about an ideal nighttime skin care routine. Best wishes, Sharmani

  4. nance

    Hi sharmani,
    i am 36 yo.When I was a teenager I had acne and oily skin .But now I guess with age My skin has become drye and sensitive .It’s ben almost year now that i’ve been using moisturiser with spf 50 and at night sometimes i use olay regenerist’s night elixir.I think it has almost 30% of glycolic acid in it.It’s ben working for me so far but I want to incorporate retinol in my routine too . How do i do it.
    thanks
    nance

    1. Sharmani

      Nance, Thanks for asking about how to incorporate retinol. I would suggest beginning with Green Cream Level 6. (Use a Level 3 if you have very sensitive skin.) If you’ve never used retinol before, introduce it slowly. Begin by applying on not-too-perfectly clean skin as the natural oils in your skin will help you to ease the transition into retinol use. I like to reccommend applying in late afternoon, and then washing it off before bed. As with introducing any new product or ingredient, begin with a patch test: apply a little of the product in an unconspicuous area like the neck, underneath the earlobe. Allow 24 hours from the time of application to allow for signs of undue irritation. (A certain amount of tingling and dryness are to be expected with retinol, however.) If the product seems compatible with your skin, begin by using retinol every third night, working your way up to more frequent use. Use a good sunscreen by day. For more details, see our article on Green Cream. Thanks for asking — Sharmani

  5. Nicole

    Hi! I’ve been using Retinol and porcelana ( to lighten sunspots ) …but want to use a product containing alpha hydroxy acid as well. I’ve heard that alpha hydroxy acid will inactivate the porcelana if mixed.any suggestions on how to use all three effectivly? My skin seems to tolerate the retinol with no problems. Thanks for your advice!

    1. Sharmani

      Hello Nicole, the best way to use alpha hydroxy acids and retinol is alternately. Both are effective treatments in resurfacing the skin, but together they may cause undue irritation. I should imagine the same to be true of AHAs and Porcelana. I would advise you to use them alternately. If you wish to try layering, proceed with caution: do a patch test first on an inconspicuous area and wait 24 hours for any symptoms to appear. Hope this helps, Sharmani.

  6. Mia

    I find that AHAs or Retinol really make my skin sensitive to the sun. I use mineral powder makeup which provides some protection but I have never been able to find a liquid sunscreen that doesn’t either make me greasy and cause breakouts or doesn’t really dehydrate my skin after a few weeks of use. I’m looking for something with water resistance (so not the Keys Rx) as I swim a lot in the Summer. Any suggestions? Should I stop using retinol and AHAs in the Summer?

    1. Sharmani

      For Mia, The only way to know for certain whether there is a liquid/cream sunscreen which suits your needs is to try it. As you seem to have very sensitive skin, I can imagine this is a frustrating process. Anthelios sunscreens are non comedogenic and many are tested on sensitive skin. When you make any purchase with us, we are able to provide a small sample of Anthelios XL SPF 50+ Fluide Extreme (formulated for oily skin) for an additional cost of $2.00. Samples of SPF 20 primers made by Colorescience are also available, free of charge with a purchase. To answer your question more specifically, if you are not able to find a sunscreen which suits your needs, you may find it best to give your skin a rest from retinol and AHAs during the summer months. Best wishes, Sharmani

  7. Carla

    Hi, I was wondering if I can mix my moisturiser with my Retin A- .5% cream of a night?

  8. Cecelia

    I am using Mary Kay now and have used Loreal, OLay, Avon, I’ve tried so many! My skin feel dry and tight imeadiately after cleansing. I get tiny blackheads on nose and my face is always peeling and flaky, wearing foundation looks awful!HELP PLEASE!

    1. Sharmani

      For Cecelia,
      To start, you may want to consider a more gentle cleanser that won’t leave your skin feeling tight and dry, like the Apothekari Cloud Nine Foaming Cleansing Creme or La Roche Posay’s Physiological Cleansing Gel. If you haven’t done so already, incorporating a gentle exfoliant, like MaMa Lotion, into your weekly routine will help remove the dead skin cells from the surface of your skin and reveal the newer, healthier-looking skin underneath.
      Best, Sharmani

  9. Dima

    Hello I have 2 products one using aha(filorga skin and peel) and one with Retinaldehyde (0.05%) (avene ulage) any recommendations on how to use both? Should I use one untill its finished then follow by the other? If yes which comes first? Any other suggestions? And finally once the creams are done should I buy the same or follow with a nourishing moisturiser or maybe the miso therapy line from filorga?
    Thanks for your help
    Ps: im 30 with no major wrinkles but mostly brown spots from past acne and a random pimple especially on forhead.

    1. Sharmani

      For Dima:
      In general, AHA and retinoid products should not be used on the same day in order to minimize skin irritation. Both are potent active ingredients and instructions on each product should be followed closely. Your skin’s unique response will dictate whether or not you should continue using either product. As for a nourishing moisturizer, this should be included in your daily skincare routine.
      Regarding acne scarring, our customers have told us that they have had great success with MaMa Lotion, containing malic & mandelic acids.
      Best, Sharmani

  10. judy

    hi sharmani, I recently bought a moisturizer called kiss my face 4% alpha hydroxy peaches and cream its all natural but I been using a serum with retinol that serum is called skin effects advanced brightening complex… How can I use both in my skin care regimen?? plz help

    1. Sharmani

      For Judy:
      Both retinoids and alpha hydroxy acids are great as part of your anti-aging skin care routine. We would suggest that they be used on alternating nights in order to minimize any possible irritation. And because both can make you more sun sensitive, daily application of a good, broad spectrum sunscreen like Anthelios is essential.
      Best, Sharmani

  11. Juanita

    Hi. Iv been using a neutrogena Product containing AHA and iv been using it every day, not just a few times a week, but rather every am and pm both. I recently in the past year got really bad hyer pigmentation, so I turned to AHAs again to help w it since it has worked well in the past…but is this really bad bad to use every day? My face only tingled first couple uses. I am not sensitive in have very normal skin. Is this AHA product ok to use REGULARLY or not? And I also had planned to add a retinol product from the same skin care line to my daily return as well. And, I had planned doing AHA am and retinol pm everyday. As I said my hyper-pigmentation is pretty bad, so I do want to treat this as quickly as possible and iv already started to see progress just n Th e last week of using the AHA. So can I use this like I hav been? At.least

  12. Juanita

    So sorry I didnt get last part typed.
    Is it ok to use the AHAs like I hav been at least till I see very noticable improvement and, then back off to just a couple times a week for maintenence? Please help!! I want to do whats best for my skin, but while still being able to treat this issue efficently and effectively! And as I mentioned iv noticed improvement already and im only on my 7th day of using this AHA an already its faded some! So this AHA stuff really dose what it says it will but could using it everyday be damaging to my skin later on? Any ADVICE!!??

    1. Sharmani

      For Juanita:
      Ideally, AHA’s and retinoids should be used on alternating evenings in order to minimize potential irritation. And because both active ingredients can make your skin more susceptible to sun damage, we strongly suggest using a stable, broad spectrum sunscreen like Anthelios every day, rain or shine. Cutting back your use of your AHA treatment twice a week while slowly introducing a retinol product is a great idea.
      Best, Sharmani

  13. Ash

    What precautions are to be taken while trying to get pregnant ?

    1. Sharmani

      For Ash:
      Retinoids and vitamin A products should be avoided if you are pregnant, trying to get pregnant or breastfeeding. As for alpha hydroxy acids, they are generally considered safe but it would be best to consult with your doctor.
      Best, Sharmani

  14. Ehra

    Hi, I use an AHA at night but apply moisturizer over it because my skin still feels dry after applying. Does this cause it to be less beneficial? I’ve done the same with the retinol cream since I only apply it to certain areas of my face where fine lines are. Thanks in advanced

    1. Sharmani

      For Ehra,
      AHA and retinol treatments can indeed be drying to the skin. Applying a moisturizer over top of your AHA product does not interfere with its efficacy. However, we would suggest waiting a few minutes to allow the AHA to sink in before using a hydrating moisturizer that does NOT contain additional exfoliating agents such as glycolic acid.
      Best, Sharmani

  15. Michele

    Hi. I am 32 with acne prone skin and use proactiv repairing lotion every night. I want to start incorporating both retinol and aha into my skincare regime but not sure how to do it effectively. I started using Roc Retinol at night, followed by Proactiv a half hour later, but I recently read somewhere that benzoyl peroxide (the active ingredient in proactiv) deactivates retinol. I really want to start regularly using retinol because i am starting to see signs of aging but afraid if I stop proactiv that I will breakout worse. i dont want to use proactiv in the day because its drying and causes sensitivity to sun. Do you have any tips on how I can effectively & correctly use all 3 products: retinol, aha, & proactiv? Thank u so much for your help! : )

    1. Sharmani

      For Michele,
      Thanks for your question. Retinol, AHA’s, and other skin treatment products that contain potent active ingredients are best used on separate nights to minimize any possible irritation. For example, alternate using your retinol and Proactiv treatments. Then, one night a week, use an AHA for exfoliation. Always test the combination and be careful not to overdo it.
      Best, Sharmani

  16. Miranda

    Hi – I used MaMa every other night followed by the M2 moisturizer. Every other night I use Sarah Chapman’s Skin Tone Perfector Booster. Where should I add a retinol? Can I layer any serums with the Mama lotion?

    1. Sharmani

      For Miranda,
      In general, we would recommend using a retinol product 5 nights a week for optimal results and an exfoliant (like MaMa Lotion) twice a week. Your skin tone perfector booster could be used in conjunction with the retinol as they would work synergistically together to reduce dark spots. However, if you prefer to concentrate on only one treatment per night, we would suggest retinol 3x a week, the booster 2x a week, and then on weekends use the MaMa Lotion.
      An antioxidant serum like Apothekari’s Super C serum would be ideal under the MaMa Lotion and M2 moisturizer. Just give the serum a few minutes to absorb before applying your other treatments.
      Hope this helps!
      Best, Sharmani

  17. Shohreh

    When I was young I had oily skin.I had a lot of acne which left scares on my face. Now I’m 51 and after menopause, my face is not as oily as it was before. I’ve got done needling on my face. the only cream that I’m using now is Tretinoin 0.025% as a night cream. What day cream, moisturiser and eye cream do you recommend?

    Best regards
    Shohreh

    1. Sharmani

      For Shohreh,
      Thanks for your question. As retinoids can be drying to the skin, it’s important to use a good, basic night cream over top if needed. During the day, choose a day cream that either contains sun filters, like Anthelios KA SPF100 or a dedicated facial sunscreen, like Anthelios XL SPF 50+ Melt-in/Comfort Cream. Try to avoid moisturizers with exfoliants like alpha hydroxyl acids or glycolic acid as they may overtax the skin while using retinoids.
      Your choice of eye cream really depends on whether you are trying to target wrinkles, puffiness, or dark circles. Our current favorites are the Apothekari Firming Eye Gel and the La Roche Posay Redermic C Eyes.
      Best, Sharmani

  18. Jen Gross

    I use several different anti aging products and also use proactive + for my acne prone skin. I’m 32 and trying to treat acne and wrinkles simultaneously successfully. I’m glad I came across this site because I didn’t know certain products could cancel out others.
    So The products I use contain, benzoyl peroxide, vitamin c and hylauronic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and retinol. Yikes! I have no idea how to successfully use them all together. I used to just mix them all but had no idea I was canceling out the effectiveness. How would you use all these together? Please help! My retinol is a serum, my hylauronic and vitamin c is a serum, my toner has glycolic and salicylic acid, my benzoyl peroxide is the proactive + face wash and repairing lotion, and I have the Olay resurfacing night elixir that I use every now and then with glycolic acid and my 30spf neutrogena moisturizer contains retinol.
    My regimen right now in the morning is face wash, toner, benzoyl peroxide repairing lotion, the hylauronic acid n vitamin C serum and then retinol moisturizer spf30.
    My night regimen is face wash, toner, repairing lotion,and then retinol serum or glycolic serum that I alternate.
    Oh and can I mix glycolic and salicylic acids with benzoyl peroxide?
    I would really appreciate your help in how to use all these effectively. I’m so sorry for the super long post, just confused. Thank you for your help!

    1. Sharmani

      For Jen,
      In answer to your questions, both AHA’s (glycolic acid in your case) and BHA’s (salicylic acid is the only beta hydroxyl acid) can be used together. AHA’s work on the surface of the skin while BHA’s penetrate deeper into the pore. It is not uncommon to see them in small concentrations within one product, like in Neostrata’s Blemish Spot Gel. Benzoyl peroxide is also a common treatment for acne that can be used effectively in conjunction with an AHA and/or BHA product. The only caveat is to make sure that the skin is not overstressed with excessive use of these ingredients and they can each trigger inflammation, peeling and irritation.
      Your morning and evening routines seem to be fine for acne treatment as well as wrinkle prevention. Vitamin C is a great antioxidant for fighting free radicals and can actually boost the effectiveness of your sun screen products.My only suggestion is to use retinol at night only as it is very light-sensitive and breaks down when exposed to the sun, making it ineffective. A dedicated daily sunscreen or a moisturizer with broad-spectrum sun filters would more than meet your needs.
      Best, Sharmani

  19. Jen Gross

    I’ve also heard that you can combine some Ana’s with bhas if you wait 30 min in between applying each product. Is that true or not effective either?

  20. Jen Gross

    Also can I mix AHAS and BHAS and both still be effective? Sorry for soo many questions!!!? Lol, trying to educate myself:)

  21. bonnie l Rhoads

    Hi, so my question is, if i use vichy exfoliating scrub a few times a week, do i need an aha, or am i getting the same effect by just using a scrub.Also, is a toner absolutely necessary as i don’t wear makeup too often. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks so much

    1. Sharmani

      For Bonnie,
      Both an exfoliating scrub and an AHA are doing the same job: removing dead skin cells and allowing the newer skin to shine through. One is a physcial method of exfoliation (the scrub) while the other is chemical (the alpha hydroxy acid). Both are effective.
      As for toners, the necessity of one is debatable. Since not all toners are the same and are often formulated to do different jobs, it’s really up to you.
      Best, Sharmani

  22. gunay

    Hi,PLease comment whether I am doing right
    I Use reviva glucolic acid cream 10% at night, vitamin c serum,HA serum and OZ naturals Sea infused herbal moisturizer with vitamin C and algae keratin extract on the top of them. Can I change my moisturizer in the morning to OZ naturals Super youth 2,5retinol moisturizer withvitamin E and H.A.?
    thanks

    1. Sharmani

      For Gunay,
      Although we are not familiar specifically with the product you mentioned, retinoids tend to break down when exposed to UV light, making it ineffective. As such, we would suggest using any retinol product at night with a very good, stable, broad spectrum sunscreen during the day.
      Best, Sharmani

  23. blueNik

    Although AHA+ wouldn’t be my first choice for those struggling with breakouts, it’s an option to alternate with a BHA exfoliant or to use if you’re not as concerned about breakouts but have uneven skin tone, rough texture, or other signs of sun damage. Experiment to see what works best for you. I had the same issue you mentioned, but I have been using the Lady Soma Renew Serum with the Berry Mask they have – and seen great results on healing my sun damage.

  24. msyewieo

    Hi Sharmani,

    i recently started having bad acne (cystic) i am about to incorporate Vit C serum, Glycolic acid and Retinol into my skin regimen. Kindly advise the best way to use these products (day and night)

    1. Sharmani

      For Msyewieo,
      Vitamin C, glycolic acid and retinol are all work in different ways to improve the health of the skin. We suggest using the vitamin C serum during the day (as it’s a great way to boost the protection of our sunscreen as well as fighting off free radicals that may be generated from UV exposure) and then using the glycolic acid and retinol on alternate nights so as not to overtax the skin and to minimize the chances of irritation. Read more about combining skin care treatments here on our blog.
      Best, Sharmani

  25. Carmen Coco

    Hello Sharmani,

    I am interested in creating an effective skin care routine that helps with dark spots on my face left by acne. I am of dark complexion if that info may help. I am going to start dermarolling and purchased a vitamin c serum and retinol. I have been using a benzoyl peroxide topical wash 5% morning and night followed by a glycolic acid toner, hyaluronic acid sdrum followed by a moisturizer in which i put vitamin E/roseship/castor oil. Should I include a dark spot corrector? I feel like I have done so many different things in the search for the perfect effective routine and my face doesn’t seem to get better. I need help organizing when and in what order do I used these products.

    Million thanks in advance

    1. Sharmani

      For Carmen,
      Thanks for your question. As anyone knows who is trying to deal with hyperpigmentation, whether it be from aging, sun damage or scarring, the process is a long and complicated one. There are definitely some do’s and don’ts when it comes to dealing with dark spots. The gold standard in topical dark spot treatment is hydroquinone. However, if you are using any products containing peroxide, it is not recommended to mix the two as this could lead to dark staining of the skin, the very opposite of what you are trying to achieve.
      When using a combination of products to exofoliate, it is important to not overtax your skin and to give it time to build up tolerance. Vitamin C, retinol and hyaluronic acid moisturizers will all help the skin heal and renew but please do not forget to add a broad-spectrum sunscreen to your daily routine.
      Read more about skin lightening here in our blog as well as information about skin care combinations that work well together and others to avoid.
      Best, Sharmani

  26. Annabelle

    If I use Retinol at night and glycolic acid 2x a week in the morning, can moisturizing products with spf15 be possible alternative for sunscreen Anthelios? I am just staying at home & very seldom did I go out.

    1. Sharmani

      For Annabelle,
      Thanks for your questions. We’re happy to hear that you’re choosing to wear a product with sun filters every day as part of your anti-aging and sun protection regimen. If you are not exposed to direct sunlight during the day, even through windows, a moisturizer with SPF 15 should be sufficient. You may want to consider Anthelios KA SPF 100, a perfect blend (in our opinion!) of hydration and sun protection. However, when it comes to our skin, we think more protection is better, especially when retinol and glycolic acid are involved. We prefer using a dedicated sunscreen daily, like Anthelios XL SPF 60 Lightweight Lotion.
      AHA’s and retinoids are best used at night as they can increase skin’s sensitivity to the sun and/or the active ingredient degrades from UV exposure. We would suggest using retinol and glycolic acid on alternate nights.
      Best, Sharmani

  27. Lisa

    I have a question- i use glycolic acid cream 10% every morning under my vitamic c- then I use cerave PM moisturizer- i have oily skin- can i skin mositurizer- or add like a hyaluronic serum. at nite i use vitamic c and then olay regenerist. plus i use eye cream. I clean my face morning and nite with a konjac sponge with Cerave hydrating cleanser. what should i be doing different. I am 41 with oily skin. I hear hyaluronic serums are great too but where do u add them in? do i need a better Retinol at night besides Olay.

    1. Sharmani

      For Lisa,
      Thanks for your questions. We think the ideal morning routine would be cleansing, a vitamin C serum, a broad spectrum sunscreen like Anthelios XL SPF 50 Ultrafluid (popular with our customers who have an oily complexion), then a moisturizer if needed. In the evening, you would cleanse again, apply an anti-aging retinoid, then a moisturizer and eye treatment if needed.
      We don’t think you’re far off with your current routine (although a daily sun protection product is definitely missing!). Looking at the ingredient list of the Cerave PM moisturizer, it appears that it already contains hyaluronic acid. If you find that the hydration level is sufficient and your skin responds well to it, there’s no reason to change or add in another hyaluronic serum.
      As for the retinol, pay close attention to where retinol appears in the list of ingredients. In order for it to be effective, there should be sufficient amounts in a form that will best benefit the skin. For more information on retinoids and active ingredients, please feel free to check out our blogs here and here.
      Best, Sharmani

  28. minh

    which leaping bunny certified companies have the best retinoid/retinols in their product lines? i already have s BHA that i like from one company. just not sure which cruelty free companies (has to be leaping bunny certified) have retinols/retinoids with the highest percentage. thanks!

    1. Sharmani

      For Minh,
      Thanks for your question. Cruelty-free products have really come to the forefront with consumers within the last few years, some of which are certified by Leaping Bunny or endorsed by PETA. Others, which are also cruelty-free, have not gone through the formal certification process. If your priority is using products with the Leaping Bunny seal of approval, we suggest that you search their website, filter down the brands to those that manufacture Face Care and consider the options given. You may be more familiar with or partial to one or more particular ones. Start with those and check their websites for retinoid products. As for effectiveness, you may want to read our blog here about the different forms of retinoids and which ones may give you the best results. Remember, too, that the higher up on the list of ingredients, the higher the concentrations. Good luck!
      Best, Sharmani

  29. Dawn Weaver

    This was published in 2008. Is it still the latest on the best?

    1. Sharmani

      For Dawn,
      Thanks for your question. Alpha hydroxy acids and retinoids are still considered excellent choices for healthy-looking skin. Both remain highly recommended by skin care specialists and dermatologists.
      Best, Sharmani

  30. Teotimo

    Therefore the alpha hydroxy acid are good for the health of our face .

  31. hyra

    Hey.I have problem of keratosis pilarasis so what will be more effective for me ? Alphahydroxy acid or salicylic acid or retinoids ? Please do suggest me something really really effective because I’m very much worried about this issue.

    1. Sharmani

      For Hyra,
      Keratosis pilaris can treated with a range of different ingredients to help exfoliate, like alpha hydroxy acids, urea or retinoids, depending on where on the body it is occurring. Read more about your options here in our blog post that deals specifically with this issue.
      Best, Sharmani

  32. CRenee

    Hi there,
    I suffer from hormonal acne and clogged pores (colorless bumps with no head). I understand that a vitamin A (Retinol) serves a similar purpose as an AHA, Would one be considered better than the other from my acne type? I also have quite sensitive skin. Iv started using an 8% mandelic acid, (moving up to 15% soon) from Vivant Skincare, followed by their vitamin C+E antioxidant serum in the evening . This has improved my skin greatly but I feel like I have hit a wall as far as improvements go. I also use the vitamin C serum in the am post toner, pre moisturizer.

    1. Sharmani

      For CRenee:
      When dealing with hormonal acne, there are a range of ingredients that can help:

      Vitamin A (retinoids) derivatives like retinol and retinaldehyde work to reduce sebum production. Retinaldehyde, unlike some of the other retinoids, also has anti-bacterial activity against P.acnes, the bacteria associated with acne.

      AHAs work by exfoliating the skin and helping to unclog blocked pores, which can exacerbate acne. Low pH Vitamin C works similarly to
      AHAs and you can consider that as an alternative.

      Niacinamide is a potent anti-inflammatory and has been shown to reduce acne and blemishes.

      We recommend a routine that incorporates a retinoid as found in Apothekari A is for Anti-Aging. It contains retinaldehyde, which is mild and effective along with niacinamide for its potent anti-inflammatory benefits. Incorporate an exfoliating AHA treatment several times a week to unclog pores. And, continue with your Vitamin C serum or consider our Bespoke Vitamin C Serum, which contains L-ascorbic acid plus a range of antioxidants to protect skin against free radical damage. Many of our clients who use the combination of Bespoke Vitamin C in the morning and A is for Anti-Aging at night, report a marked improvement in their acneic symptoms.

      As with any new skin care routine, start gradually and build up to nightly use to ensure that your skin tolerates it.
      Best, Sharmani

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