Vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbic acid, has been the workhorse and powerhouse of the skincare world for many years, quietly going about its business. But with the growing awareness of how indispensable antioxidants are when it comes to anti-aging skin care, it seems this humble ingredient is finally getting its just desserts with an increasing prominence in formulations. Similar to the growing surge in popularity experienced last year by hyaluronic acid, vitamin C is ready for its close-up.
Before you jump in feet first, there are a few things to know about this superstar that should help you decide which product will give you the most bang for your buck:
- Vitamin C is Highly Unstable: Vitamin C has its Achilles’ heel: air. Exposing it to air accelerates the oxidation process, causing it to become unstable, lose potency and potentially harmful to skin. Vitamin C preparations that are not formulated correctly will oxidize (break down) and become ineffective as well as potentially harmful by actually increasing the formation of free radicals which can lead to skin damage. Oxidized vitamin C will take on a dark yellow tinge so look for clear solutions or white creams and powders that are stored in small, opaque containers, a good indication that your formulation is stable and therefore, effective and safe. You may also notice that some creams and preparations have a shorter than usual shelf life. Most cosmetics, once opened, are good for 12 months. Those with vitamin C may only have a 3 or 6 month shelf life so it’s best to use it regularly to get the most value out of your purchase
- There’s More Than One Form: The form of vitamin C you’ll most likely see is L-ascorbic acid (also listed as Ascorbic Acid). That’s because this highly effective version is backed by the most clinical studies of any form of vitamin C to support its use in skincare. It’s a potent antioxidant that restores elasticity to the skin, encourages collagen production and brightens overall skin tone. You’ll also find a number of other forms including Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP), Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP), 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbate, Ascobrbyl Glucoside, amongst others.
- It Works Better in Conjunction with vitamin E: This is definitely a case of friends with benefits. Vitamin C’s instability is tempered when combined with other antioxidants such as vitamin E and ferulic acid. Not only does this combination help to stabilize the vitamin C but allows this happy trio to work synergistically to soothe, heal and moisturize.
- It Can Boost Your Sunscreen’s Effectiveness: Although it should not be used as a replacement for a sun protection, vitamin C’s ability to fight free radicals generated by UV rays, boosts the efficacy of your sunscreen. My daily morning routine includes a vitamin C serum on a clean face before applying sunscreen, every day of the year.
- You May Want to Go Slow With Higher Concentrations: Despite its many benefits, vitamin C can cause some skin irritation due to its acidity and/or low pH level. Redness, stinging, itching and peeling are all indications that your skin may need some time to adapt. Introduce it gradually to your routine, switch to a lower strength or choose a different form so that your skin can build up tolerance enough for you to reap the rewards.
We think Apothekari’s Bespoke Vitamin C (in 10% and 15%) serum ticks all the boxes. Because it’s formulated with additives that help stabilize the L-ascorbic acid as well as being prepared at the time of each order, we like to think it’s unique to other serums on the market. It also includes ingredients that are especially skin beneficial and avoids those that are known to be problematic.
Are you ready for the year of C?
